Following the advice set out by British Standard it is not recommended to tile onto a papered or painted surface. Emulsion paint, lime-wash, distemper and similar finishes should be removed since they can possess poor adhesion to backing. Unfortunately, there is no easy fix when it comes to tiling onto an emulsion painted surface, the paint must be removed.
Emulsion paint is water based so as soon as the adhesive comes into contact with the paint it reactivates it leaving you with a very poor or non-existent bond. Additionally, most tiles are now larger than 30cm x 30cm which means a ready mixed adhesive cannot be used and as cementitious based tile adhesives are not recommended on painted surfaces, this leaves no alternative but to remove the paint for larger format tiles.
Removing emulsion paint from plaster can be a difficult and time-consuming process. Holding a wallpaper stripper to the wall to apply steam to the emulsion can often be the easiest way to remove the paint. Collect the emulsion scrapings in a bag while they are still soft, otherwise they can become stuck to the floor or work surface. Consider over boarding with a tile backing board such as HardieBacker , in most cases this is a time and labour saving solution.
Use a damp sponge or cloth and a small amount of mild all-purpose cleaner with warm water to remove as much of the residue as possible. Once the area is clean you will need to key the surface.
Keying a surface is done to help your adhesive grip the wall or floor; it creates small, rough grooves that maximise adhesion. The simplest way to create a mechanical key to your surface is by using sandpaper, a sander or scoring it with a knife or scraper.
When cement-based adhesives meet plaster, a reaction occurs that prevents adhesion and the tilling will most likely fail. Using primers will prevent this reaction. Set the first tile next to where the vertical and horizontal lines meet on the wall. Line up the tile edges with the vertical and horizontal marks on the wall to ensure that they're level and plum.
Check the upper edge to make sure it lines up with the horizontal line. Continue placing the first course of tiles in the same manner using spacers. Place strips of blue painter's tape over the tile face, sticking each end to the wall to prevent the tiles from sliding or falling off as the mastic sets.
Allow the mortar or mastic to sit for at least 12 hours to set properly. Continue the installation process with the second course of tiles by applying vertical grooved mastic above the first course slightly wider than the tile. Place tiles on top of the spacers and align their outside edges with the bottom tiles. Measure any areas that require custom-cut tiles and transfer the measurement to the tiles that you'll place there.
Equip the tile saw with a tile-cutting blade or use nippers to complete the cuts. Apply the mortar or mastic in the same manner as the rest of the wall and place the tiles. Apply grout to the tile using a grout spreader. Work the spreader in several different directions to push the grout into the spaces between the tile. People have been tiling onto paint for decades, and "in my view" they have been fine for the most part.
I have been to look at quite a few bathrooms that have been tiled onto paint and the tiles have been hard to remove from the walls. One bathroom I did an estimate on a week or so ago, had been tiled onto paint, only dot n dabbing the tiles in the corners with minute amounts of adhesive, the dried adhesive blobs were around a ten pence piece in size max, and the customer noticed some grout had fallen off from around a tile, so as he was applying some new grout to the tile, it fell off, bringing away 2 more with it, that's how I could see how little adhesive had been used to fix them onto a painted wall.
Im only saying this as some people tend to claim that if something is done a certain way, they can guarentee it will fail in a very short period of time, where it dosen't in all cases, yes it might in some, but most probably won't in most. Now Im not saying who is right and who is wrong, and yes in a perfect world we wouldn't tile onto paint, but in some cases it's the difference between getting a job and not getting it if a customer has had tiles on a painted wall for 20 years, then we come around and say it all has to be sanded off other wise they will fall off within the month The job I looked at, the customer is happy with me saying I will need a day to sand down and prime the walls, but a lot wouldn't be.
It's like using PVA as a primer. It's probably been used millions of times, with only a few examples of the tiling failing compared to the amount that hasn't failed because of it, but it's still not best to use because it can make it fail. So, in a nutshell, while tiling onto paint isn't ideal, the chances of it failing as quickly as some would say it will is probably very small, "in my view".
Seeing this from a novices point of view - when I tiled my bathroom 15 years ago now in bits and being done 'properly' - bloody grout lines! I was unaware that you couldn't tile over paint - so I did. Looking at the wall now that I have removed the tiles I can see that for some reason I had decided to score the wall, but then I applied pva.
The tiles on the painted area were an absolute nightmare to get off - the old adhesive had to be chiseled off. My only suggestion is does it have anything to do with the type of paint used? The stuff I used was the dulux bathroom paint - resistant to mould etc.
The tiles on walls in the wet areas fell off with a bit of help - pva and water ingress? This resulted in tile and plaster skim leaving the wall. Before I removed the tiles there was no evidence that there was a major problem with tiles dropping off Sully.
Sorry chaps, but I do a lot of natural stone nowadays. I agree that for many standard ceramic tiles, not much sanding required.
BUT I would never risk sticking x Trav or marble tiles onto an emulsion painted wall. I know you have all seen the table of weights for plaster, plasterboard, plywood etc etc Would like to hear anyone come up with the weights acceptable for emulsion paint???
If you phone the technical dept for most adhesive manufacturer, they would almost always advise you to "mechanically abrade" the paint prior to tiling. Not being a " textbook arsehole" here - just like to do the job so there can be no comebacks in the future!! All my work is on recommend - want to keep it that way!! Last edited by a moderator: Dec 9, Paint only becomes a problem for Tiling on, when it has been penetrated by water.
Emulsion and Silk are both water based which means it will eventually soften and peal. This is why you get flaky paint and condesation a foot or so up from the shower tray, top of bath, condensation areas around the toilet cistern and windows, internal corners and where the wall meets the ceiling.
The integrity of the paint is also lost if it is not prepped properly before the next coat, i. In which case the adhesion of the tiles on the wall, will most certainly be affected. Hope this helps. Do It Your Own Way Or The Right Way Used topps ready mix for bath and kitchen to put tiles on they were mm sq. The top and bottom of this is " take each job on it's own merits" There are many different types of paint and wall. Some paint may be bonded to the wall very well. Others may flake off very easily.
Use your judgement.
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